Nyepi is the day Bali closes. There is no other place on the planet that literally shuts down because of a spiritual belief in the balance between good and evil.
The Balinese Hindu lunar New Year is called Nyepi. It's the most important holiday of the year and it is a full 24 hours of silence from 6am to 6am. This year it falls on March 17, the first new moon in March, and it signifies the arrival of Spring.
But there's more to it than a simple change of season.
Legend has it that it is also the time the lord of hell sends all of his devils to the island and these must be removed before a new year can begin. Balance must be restored.
The night before Nyepi is chaotic and noisy. Huge demonic effigies, some more than 10-meters high, called ogoh-ogoh come to life. These evil earth-spirits are made from Styrofoam and papier-mâché and they're paraded around streets on massive bamboo platforms, which can take tens of people to carry.
The ogoh-ogoh are said to distract or capture evil spirits, effectively 'cleaning' the island for another year. The effigies are then ceremoniously burned and the following day must be silent to make sure they can't find their way back.
But the evening before buzzes with excited children, cheering crowds, a mix of loud techno-dangdut music, warm beer, local arak rice wine, hypnotic gamelan and sweat, which culminates in the ritual burning of these elaborate and often expensive effigies.
And then there is silence.
For all intents and purposes, Bali is shut. It isolates itself from the rest of the world and focuses on the importance of balance.
The result is startling as the island succumbs to an extraordinary serene silence blanketed by a night sky alive with the Milky Way and shooting stars. For some it's an excuse to leave the island altogether or stay in a hotel or resort somewhere, as they are somewhat exempt from the strict 'no-noise' policy the rest of the island is subject to.
For others it's simply the best time of the year.
Nyepi is supposed to be a day of inner-reflection. People are restricted from leaving their homes, villas or compounds. Traditional Balinese neighborhood security (Pecalang), keep an eye on the streets to make sure people don't wander around. Roads are empty, and quiet. There are no sounds of internal combustion. Electric lights are switched off and all businesses, shops and offices are officially closed. Even Ngurah Rai International Airport is shut down and no flights arrive or depart.
There are four Nyepi Prohibitions: no fire, no travel, no activity and no entertainment. Even satellite, cable and terrestrial TV channels are temporarily unavailable.
And this year this could also mean no internet.
Once again, the highest religious body in Bali, Parisada Hindu Dharma Indonesia or PHDI, are appealing to the country’s Ministry of Communication and Information Technology to cut Internet services and data on mobile networks during the Nyepi holiday to maintain the integrity of Bali's most important holiday.
The ministry has not confirmed any plans to go along with the request.
Sources: Bali Post, Coconuts Bali
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